Hanfu (漢服)
Hanfu (simplified Chinese: 汉服;
traditional Chinese: 漢服) or Han Chinese Clothing, also
sometimes known as Hanzhuang (漢裝), Huafu (華服),
and sometimes referred in English sources simply as Silk Robe[1] (especially
those worn by the gentry) or Chinese Silk Robe refers to the historical dress
of the Han Chinese people, which was worn for millennia before the conquest by
the Manchus and the establishment of the Qing Dynasty in 1644. The term Hanfu
derives from the Book of Han, which says, "then many came to the Court to
pay homage and were delighted at the clothing style of the Han [Chinese]."
Hanfu has a history of more than three millennia, and is said to have been worn by the legendary Yellow Emperor. From the beginning of its history, Hanfu (especially in elite circles) was inseparable from silk, supposedly discovered by the Yellow Emperor’s consort, Leizu. The Shang Dynasty (c.1600 BC-1000 BC), developed the rudiments of Hanfu; it consisted of a yi, a narrow-cuffed, knee-length tunic tied with a sash, and a narrow, ankle-length skirt, called chang, worn with a bixi, a length of fabric that reached the knees. Vivid primary colors and green were used, due to the degree of technology at the time.
12th century Chinese painting of The Night Revels of Han
Xizai (韓熙載夜宴圖) showing musicians dressed in Hanfu
The dynasty to follow the Shang, the Western Zhou
Dynasty, established a strict hierarchical society that used clothing as a
status meridian, and inevitably, the height of one’s rank influenced the
ornateness of a costume. Such markers included the length of a skirt, the
wideness of a sleeve and the degree of ornamentation. In addition to these
class-oriented developments, the Hanfu became looser, with the introduction of
wide sleeves and jade decorations hung from the sash which served to keep the
yi closed. The yi was essentially wrapped over, in a style known as jiaoling
youren, or wrapping the right side over before the left, because of the
initially greater challenge to the right-handed wearer (the Chinese discouraged
left-handedness like many other historical cultures, considering it unnatural,
barbarian, uncivilized and unfortunate).
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